Travel

Rule the waves in an overwater villa on a private Panamanian island

There’s something unmistakably romantic about an overwater bungalow.

Maybe it’s that splendid isolation that comes from being surrounded on all sides by water, with wraparound views of the sea, all without the constant bobbing of a boat.

Thus far, honeymooners looking for this watery escape have generally had to trek far and wide to find it, to the Maldives, or South Pacific islands. (The only US overwater lodgings are at the Polynesian in Walt Disney World.)

But for an exclusive, luxurious bungalow only half a day away, newlyweds can now head to Nayara Bocas Del Toro in Panama — a tropical, adults-only resort on its own island in an archipelago in the Caribbean Sea.

The dream is that of Dan Behm, a 64-year-old entrepreneur whose retirement project was to buy a hotel in Costa Rica (“I wanted to find something to keep me busy that was fun and energizing,” he said.)

After successfully launching El Castillo in 2015, now also under the upscale Nayara brand, he turned to Panama as the perfect place to set up these elusive lodgings.

Treehouses offer spectacular views and open air bathing.
Courtesy of Nayara Resorts

“The location was everything — it had to be out of the hurricane zone,” he said.

Tides and other engineering factors were also key in choosing Boca Del Toros, a region made up of 9 main islands and a strip of mainland just off the east coast of Panama, close to the Costa Rica border.

Consequently, a small island purchased in 2017 proved perfect.

‘Not only would the overwater bungalows work, the weather is tropical with year round sun. ‘Not only would the overwater bungalows work, the weather is tropical with year round sun.

Despite enjoying some tourism, particularly from surrounding areas, Bocas del Toro has avoided major construction and retains a natural, low key ambience.

Everything in the region is accessible only by boat, with natural uninhabited islands that boast pristine beaches, perfect for pitching up for a private picnic.

Watch the undersea world from your water bungalow’s viewing portal.
Courtesy of Nayara Resorts

Nayara Boca Del Toro promptly opened in 2021, positioning itself as a luxury, all-inclusive eco retreat, all based on Balinese design with a Caribbean twist.

After being met at the rustic Bocas Town airport, you’ll be taken by boat to the resort, being greeted at a grand palapa.

Called the Elephant House, the century-old wood and thatch structure was shipped over from Bali and rebuilt at the end of the main dock where guests disembark.

The Elephant House also serves as the resort’s main dining room. Food here is international but Caribbean influenced, with fresh organic fare and local seafood.

Embellishments, like bright red coral leaves fashioned from edible materials and perfect little pineapple-shaped chocolates are artful touches.

The one-bedroom Balinese style bungalows themselves are perfectly set up for a romantic getaway, with soaring thatched roofs and cool tile, and an expansive deck with access to the water for swimming, kayaking and snorkeling.

An engineering feat, the man-made elevated beach also boasts a tiki bar that’s perfect for sundowners.
Image Courtesy of Nayara Resorts

Landlubbers can also watch the undersea life from a viewing port within the living room floor. (Switch on the blue light at night to attract beautiful and hypnotic moon jellyfish.)

Some also boast private plunge pools — all are being retrofitted to include this amenity as of next year — although a larger pool by the casual Coral Reef alfresco restaurant is also a great place to chill with a signature Coco Loco cocktail served, naturally, in a coconut.

If your aspirations are less waterbound, though, you can opt to go Swiss Family Robinson — 5 new elevated treehouses have grown up into the interior of the island.

Like something out of ‘Avatar,’ they’re the epitome of open air living, with exotic wooden structures that blend into the natural flora.

Watch hummingbirds and butterflies float by as you relax in an outdoor soaking tub, before enjoying pre-dinner drinks on your wraparound balcony.

One slight problem existed for Behm, however — the lack of a beach.

Surrounded by protected mangroves, throwing one in wasn’t on the cards, since the resort prides itself on being 100% off grid, using solar energy, sustainable water and good waste management practices.

A large pool by the casual Coral Reef alfresco restaurant is a great place to chill.
Courtesy of Nayara Resorts

So the team got creative, coming up with an elevated sandbar, with direct entry into the water, complete with a beach bar and tiki torches for sunset viewing. It’s also the perfect spot for private dining.

If you want to explore further afield, a private boat and captain is at your disposal — whether you want to visit the nearby coral reef restoration project, Starfish Beach, or take a dolphin watching sunset cruise (complete with Champagne, of course.)

Shipwreck diving and even surfing is available, too.

Or, for something livelier, head to the main island and jump on a boat that goes on a party crawl, calling in at three island hotspots for limitless drinks.

Be warned that it’s called Filthy Friday, though, so it might not exactly make for your dream honeymoon. On the other hand, that overwater bungalow just might.

Treehouses from $1,270; water bungalows from $1,500. Fly from Panama City (PAC) to Bocas del Toro on Air Panama, from $118 round trip. Copa Airlines flies to Panama City (PTY), from $280 round trip from JFK.